Two Watch Collection: Rolex Submariner 14060 & Grand Seiko SBGW231
I often rave about the satisfying efficiency of a two-watch collection. With some creativity, you can get everything you need and everything you want. Today’s draft picks come from two unlike countries.
The dress watch? Grand Seiko. Japanese design often uses organic forms and symbols from nature, beautifully manifesting it into an object. We’re not talking tree-branch-shaped hour hands, but something more sophisticated yet plain to see. Plus, few national watch industries have graduated into their own distinct practice the way Japan’s has.
For our sport watch, we’re going Swiss. The Crown. Rolex, himself. Swiss watches are known for implementing strong horological tried-and-trues and only practical innovations, but not without elegance. Meanwhile, Japanese timepieces are known for discipline and beauty, yet can hold their own on the horological front—the perfect partnership.
Rolex Submariner 14060
Price: $9,750
Few watches have remained true to itself the way the Submariner has. It stood its ground during the quartz crisis, which could have been a captain-sinking-with-his-ship moment, but ended up being more David and Goliath. Since Subs throughout time are so similar-looking, the best vintage pieces are all about details and stories. This Rolex Submariner 14060 has plenty of that.
It’s arguably the initial step into Submariner modernity, as the first No Date with a Triplock crown, a sapphire crystal, and therefore, 300 meters of water resistance. Second, it came right after the 5513, officially ending the age of four-digit references. In the greater sense, this watch may very well be the hard line between vintage and modern.
And since it’s a Sub, it has all of the signature standard-bearing diver features, along with its iconic large indices and Mercedes hands.
Grand Seiko SBGW231
Price: $3,800
The best part about both the Sub and this Grand Seiko SBGW231 is that they’re welcome in a wide range of dress codes. Still, the SBGW231 definitely trumps his sport watch partner even on that front. It follows a traditional dress watch template, with details inspired by Japan’s early October, right before winter when rice is harvested. The result: Exquisitely curved lugs that are both graceful and strong, diamond-cut hands and indices allowing light to hit them beautifully from literally any angle, and a Zaratsu-polished case for a mirror finish.
As balletic as the dial is, that’s how strong the viewable 9S64 movement is, with that 72-hour power reserve and brawny rotor. Between that and its manual-wind construction, this watch is as tactile and horologically fun as it’s elegant.
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